A Complete Guide To Dartmoor

Dartmoor is Devon’s wild heart. Covering 368 square miles, this vast national park feels like it’s straight out of Lord of The Rings, with moss-covered trees, giant boulders, little thatched cottages and cinematic scenery. Here’s our guide to everything you need to know about visiting Dartmoor.

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Dartmoor at a Glance

Dartmoor National Park is the largest wilderness in south-west England, covering 368 square miles of open moorland, deep river valleys and ancient woodland.

It is also one of Britain’s most archaeologically rich landscapes. Dartmoor contains the largest concentration of Bronze Age remains in the UK, with more than 1,200 recorded sites, including stone rows, hut circles and ceremonial monuments.

Other remarkable facts include:

  • High Willhays is the highest point in southern England, rising to 621 metres

  • Over 400 miles of footpaths and bridleways criss-cross the moor

  • Warren House Inn is the highest inn in south-west England

  • Canonteign Falls is the second-highest waterfall in England

  • The Upper Erme Stone Row is the longest stone row in the world, stretching over 3,300 metres

  • Dartmoor doubled as the fictional setting for the 1994 Quidditch World Cup in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire

  • Around 47,000 people live within the National Park boundary

  • Archaeologists have discovered 3,500-year-old hoof prints, preserved in peat

Dartmoor is a living, working landscape – shaped by geology, weather, farming and thousands of years of human presence.


When to Visit Dartmoor

Most of Dartmoor’s visitor attractions, museums and National Trust properties operate from April to October.

If possible, avoid school holidays and Saturday changeover days, when traffic on the M5 and local roads can be heavy.

  • Spring brings wildflowers, fresh green moorland and lambs in the fields

  • Autumn is one of Dartmoor’s most beautiful seasons, with golden bracken, turning leaves and quieter paths

  • September and October often offer warm seas and peaceful beaches nearby

  • Winter rewards those who come prepared, with dramatic skies, empty landscapes and roaring fires in historic pubs

Each season offers a different version of Dartmoor – none is inherently better, just different in mood and rhythm.


Getting to Dartmoor

Dartmoor is well connected by road and rail.

  • From London, the M4 (west), M1/M42 (north-east) and M6 (north-west) all link to the M5

  • Regular trains run from London Paddington and London Waterloo to Exeter and Plymouth

    • Exeter: from 2 hours 10 minutes

    • Plymouth: from 3 hours 15 minutes

Both Exeter and Plymouth have airports, with Bristol Airport another useful option for some travellers.


Getting Around Dartmoor

To explore Dartmoor properly, a car or bicycle is essential.

Public transport is limited, and many of the most beautiful locations are remote. Away from major A-roads, Devon’s ancient lanes are narrow, winding and slow-going – built for horses and carts rather than modern traffic. Allow more time than your satnav suggests.


Places to Stay on Dartmoor

Accommodation on Dartmoor ranges from simple campsites and glamping pods to traditional inns, B&Bs, country house hotels and self-catering cottages.

For couples seeking privacy, character and a quieter pace, a well-located cottage often offers the most rewarding experience. Staying independently allows you to shape days around weather, energy and mood – lingering over breakfast, walking straight from the door, and returning to a space that feels genuinely your own. This style of stay suits honeymoons, mini-moons and romantic breaks particularly well, where immersion in the landscape matters more than facilities or formality.

One example is Moorland View, a thatched, historic retreat in the village of North Bovey, in heart of Dartmoor National Park, designed specifically for couples. Owner-run and carefully restored, it offers the privacy of a cottage with the comfort and romance of a boutique hotel – alongside immediate access to moorland walks, quiet lanes and traditional Dartmoor villages.

Many couples choose to explore Dartmoor as part of a romantic break in Devon, drawn by its wide-open landscapes, quiet villages and the freedom to slow down. With space to walk straight from the door, pause over long lunches and return to somewhere private at the end of the day, the moor lends itself naturally to unhurried, couple-focused stays. For those considering this style of escape, our romantic breaks in Devon guide offers more detail.


Dartmoor towns

Ashburton is an appealing blend of traditional, edge-of-the-moor town and bordering-on-chic retreat. Elegant terraces and granite cottages line its winding streets, and you can shop for everything from hiking rucksacks to upcycled antiques. It's an all-round pleasant place, and a good base for the southern area of Dartmoor.

 One of the prettiest of the Dartmoor villages, Chagford's stone-walled cottages, whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs are set around a quintessential village square. It's a handsome, vibrant little village, with some great places to sleep and eat, and there are views over the tors practically everywhere you look.

 Just five minutes’ drive from Moorland View, Moretonhampstead is a small, workaday Dartmoor town that’s best thought of as practical rather than picturesque. It’s not somewhere you come for a big day out – and that’s precisely its value. For guests staying nearby, Moretonhampstead is where you go to top up supplies, pick up good food, grab a coffee, or visit a handful of excellent local makers. It’s lived-in, purposeful and refreshingly unpolished, with none of the performance or crowds of Dartmoor’s better-known honeypots.


Dartmoor Weather – What to Expect

Dartmoor weather is famously changeable. It is not unusual to experience four seasons in a single day.

Rainfall varies dramatically:

  • Around 2,000mm annually on high moorland

  • Closer to 800mm in lower-lying areas

Warm layers, waterproofs and sturdy footwear are essential year-round. The ground is often uneven and boggy, even after dry spells.

On fine days, Dartmoor is idyllic – ponies grazing freely, sheep beside the road, skies stretching endlessly. Its beauty has drawn filmmakers from War Horse to countless documentaries.

When mist and rain descend, the landscape transforms entirely, lending credence to its darker literary associations, including The Hound of the Baskervilles, where Dartmoor’s wildness becomes central to the story.


Dartmoor Ponies

Few sights are as evocative as Dartmoor ponies grazing against the open moor.

Hardy, calm and sure-footed, they are uniquely adapted to survive Dartmoor’s harsh conditions, navigating bogs, poor grazing and bitter winters with remarkable resilience.

Written records date back to AD 1012, and over centuries ponies have been used for:

  • Mining and quarrying

  • Farming and shepherding

  • Carrying goods and mail

  • Escorting prisoners from Dartmoor Prison

Today, ponies play an important ecological role by controlling gorse and bracken growth.

Although around 1,500 ponies roam Dartmoor, only around 140 are pure-bred Dartmoor Ponies, now classified as a Rare Breed. Conservation efforts are supported by the Dartmoor Pony Moorland Scheme and the Dartmoor Pony Preservation Scheme.

Ponies are feral, not tame. They are owned and managed by Dartmoor Commoners and gathered annually in autumn during traditional pony drifts for health checks and counting.

Admire them from a distance, never feed them – and keep garden gates firmly shut.


Dartmoor Prison

Built in 1805 to house French prisoners during the Napoleonic Wars, Dartmoor Prison’s forbidding granite walls loom over Princetown.

Its history is as dramatic as its setting. Over the centuries it has held:

  • French and American prisoners of war

  • Political prisoners, including Éamon de Valera

  • Some of Britain’s most notorious criminals

Its reputation has inspired countless works of fiction, including The Hound of the Baskervilles and From Russia With Love.

Despite its formidable presence, Dartmoor Prison remains a working institution. Visitors can explore its history at the Dartmoor Prison Museum, which houses artefacts, artworks and personal items created by prisoners over the years.


Neolithic & Bronze Age Dartmoor

Dartmoor is one of Europe’s most extraordinary prehistoric landscapes.

Stone circles, hut circles, burial cists and ceremonial rows are scattered across the moor, evidence of a once-thriving ancient population. Thousands of hut circles remain, many forming entire abandoned settlements.

The most striking monuments are the standing stones and stone rows, found at sites such as:

  • Upper Erme

  • Drizzlecombe

  • Merrivale

  • Laughter Tor

At Grimspound, visitors can still walk among the remains of Bronze Age homes enclosed by a stone wall – a rare survival.

As Conan Doyle observed in The Hound of the Baskervilles, Dartmoor preserves prehistoric life “exactly as [it was] left”.


Dartmoor Wildlife

Dartmoor’s diverse habitats – peat bogs, rivers, woodland and open moor – support rare and remarkable wildlife.

Species include:

  • Heckford’s pygmy moth (found nowhere else on Earth)

  • Barbastelle bats

  • Southern damselflies

  • Adders, cuckoos and glow worms

Wistman’s Wood, possibly over 7,000 years old, is among the most atmospheric locations on Dartmoor, with twisted oaks draped in moss and lichen.

Guided nature walks, dawn chorus outings and fungi forays offer deeper insight, while the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust provides an excellent introduction to the moor’s most iconic residents.


Dartmoor Firing Times

Parts of northern Dartmoor are used by the Ministry of Defence for training exercises, covering around 11% of the National Park.

Public access is permitted when firing is not taking place. Restricted areas are clearly marked by red flags and posts. Always check firing schedules before setting out.

Details are available via:

  • Visitor centres

  • Ordnance Survey maps

  • Dartmoor Ranges: 0800 458 4868


Dartmoor Visitor Centres

The main visitor centre at Princetown offers exhibitions on Dartmoor’s history, culture and wildlife.

Additional centres at Postbridge and Haytor provide maps, guides and local advice. Opening times vary seasonally, so it’s worth checking ahead.


 

These guides delve a little deeper into Dartmoor – from wide-open walks and ancient sites to villages and overlooked corners.


Suzy Bennett

This blog is written by Suzy Bennett, The Telegraph’s Devon travel expert and owner of Moorland View Cottage. Suzy has been welcoming couples to Devon’s most romantic corners for over 20 years – combining first-hand local knowledge with real hosting experience to help guests plan unforgettable romantic breaks.

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